There was a time when getting there was the whole point. You dressed for the journey, ate well along the way, and arrived somewhere having already had a lovely time.
The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express still travels like that. It's one night from Paris to Venice in carriages restored from the 1920s and 1930s, and nobody on board is in a hurry.
If you're thinking about it for a honeymoon or an anniversary (or simply because you've always wanted to), here's what's worth knowing before you go.
What the journey actually is
The signature route is Paris to Venice, with one night on board. Belmond, which operates the train, also runs it to more than 15 cities across Europe, from a single night to Florence or Vienna up to five nights from Istanbul to Paris.
Paris to Venice is where most people start, and it's easy to see why. You dress for dinner as the countryside goes past, and the next morning you step off into Venice.
The carriages are the draw. They're restored from the 1920s and 1930s, with polished wood marquetry and Art Deco detail throughout, three restaurant cars, and a bar car with live music well into the night.
Which cabin to choose
This is the decision that matters most, and the differences are bigger than the photos let on.
Historic Cabins are the original compartments, and there are 32 of them. By day you sit on a banquette by the window, and at night your steward turns it into upper and lower berths. Each has its own washbasin, but the restrooms are shared at the end of the carriage. They're beautiful and genuinely period, which is exactly the appeal for some travelers.
Suites are where most couples will want to be. There are 16, each with a private marble bathroom, and you can choose a double bed instead of bunks. By day the bed folds back into a little lounge.
Grand Suites are the top of the train, with a separate sitting room and bedroom and a marbled bathroom of their own. There are only six.
L'Observatoire is an entire carriage to yourselves, designed by the French artist JR. It's really a category of one.
Honestly, for a honeymoon I'd steer you toward a Suite at minimum. A shared restroom down the hall and a ladder to the top bunk aren't what most people picture for that night.
What to wear
You genuinely can't overdress here. Belmond asks for formal evening attire at dinner, and plenty of guests take that as permission to go full black tie.
During the day, think smart rather than casual. A jacket at lunch is right at home, and jeans aren't allowed on board at any time (worth knowing before you pack).
This is half the fun, especially for younger couples. When else do you get a real reason to pack the tux and the gown?
What to pack (and how)
The luggage rules change how you pack, so they're worth knowing early. Cabins are small, which means each passenger brings three pieces, and each one goes somewhere different.
Your hand luggage stays with you the whole time: passport, jewelry, medication, anything you'd hate to lose. Your overnight bag or suit carrier is delivered to your cabin. And one suitcase goes into the baggage car, where you won't see it again until you arrive.
So pack the overnight bag as if it's the entire journey. Dinner clothes, tomorrow's outfit, toiletries, and whatever you'll want the morning you pull into Venice.
Two more things. There's no laundry service and no irons on board, so a hanging garment bag earns its spot. And the air conditioning is controlled centrally rather than cabin by cabin, so a layer you can add or take off is worth having.
Life on board
Meals are included, along with the sommelier's wine pairings, served across the three restaurant cars. Dinner runs in seatings, and while you can note a preferred time ahead, it's confirmed once you're on board.
Each cabin has a steward who looks after you for the entire trip. They take care of your luggage, make up your cabin for the night while you're out, and bring breakfast in the morning.
Phones are meant to stay in your cabin. There is Wi-Fi, though it drops in and out through the countryside, and honestly, that's part of the appeal.
One of my favorite details: the train offers a complimentary mail service for postcards and letters. Write one from the bar car and they'll send it on for you. Old fashioned? Absolutely, and entirely chic.
A few practical things
Bring a few euros. Prices on board are in euros, though major credit cards are accepted too.
Check your passport. I recommend at least six months of validity remaining from the date you arrive.
Mention any dietary needs when you book, not when you board. The kitchen can accommodate most requests with notice, but without it they're working with whatever is already on the train.
And tipping is entirely at your discretion, but having worked in Food & Beverage, I always carry cash to thank the wonderful staff.
Beyond Paris to Venice
If the train gets under your skin, there's more out there.
The Royal Scotsman is the cozy one. It takes no more than 36 guests at a time through the Scottish Highlands, on journeys of two to seven nights that start and end in Edinburgh. There's an observation car with an open-air veranda at the back, and a whole carriage given over to a Dior Spa (the only one on rails in Europe).
In South Africa, Rovos Rail crosses between Pretoria and Cape Town in three nights, with a stop in Kimberley, the old diamond town, along the way. Its Royal Suites run half a carriage each and come with a Victorian bathtub.
Thinking about it?
If this one has been on your mind, I'd love to help you plan it. Belmond is one of the partner programs I book through, so I can tell you exactly what comes with your booking and help you choose the right cabin for the trip you're picturing.
Send me the dates you're considering and we'll start there. Inquire
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